Sawadeekha!! So...the last time I wrote was early January and I was in Koh Samui, Thailand. So much has happened since then, I'm not even sure where to begin. I spent a week in Koh Samui, which to be honest, was way too much time, and decided to venture off to the island of Koh Tao to do some diving. Beautiful island, but I happened to go during a streak of not-so-good weather and the diving visibility wasn't so clear...3 meters at best. But it felt good to be traveling solo again. On the 3rd or 4th night, I met some people from England who were leaving the next day to go to Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party. So next thing you know, I was on a boat heading back to Koh Phangan with a bunch of 'pommies.' What was meant to be one night there turned into four, but we eventually made it back to Koh Tao in time to celebrate my birthday. The next day, I was on the move again, and headed west across Thailand towards the islands of Ko Lanta and Koh Phi Phi. Little did I know, I was "destined" to find Tonsai Beach, and would never make it to the Phi Phi Islands. I had actually never heard of Tonsai before, but events throughout the day would get me there by nightfall.
I left Koh Tao by boat to the mainland, and when I went to get in a van to Ko Lanta, the ride was overbooked. I didn't care though...I just figured I wasn't meant to go there. So instead, I got in a pickup truck with two French guys and a cab driver, and we traveled 7-8 hours to Krabi. The scenery was slowly changing the further we traveled from one coast to the other. Surrounded by palms, every now and then, we would pass these huge rocks jutting out from the ground. I remember looking out the window, taking in all the beauty around me, only to turn around to see the cabdriver viciously yanking nose hairs out his nostrils. It was going to be a good trip. :)
During the ride, I read in my travel book that Railey Beach was meant to be the most beautiful beach in Krabi, only accessible via longtail boat. So I figured I'd stay the night there and then head off to the Phi Phi Islands the next day. It was nightfall by the time I finally boarded the longtail. On board, a girl sitting next to me was shouting over the motor how expensive accommodation was on Railey Beach and that I should stay on Tonsai. It was then that the boat turned the corner of these huge rock cliffs and both beaches were in view. Immediately to the left was Tonsai. Smaller (maybe 300 yds) and not as "beautiful" as Railey, it was perfect. The huge limestone cliffs on both sides were lit up with dim lights, so that every overhang cast a shadow on the wall below. The beach was lined with several small bars, adorned with twinkling lights. I could faintly hear a Bob Marley track. The boat went across the bay to Railey first to drop off other passengers, and the boatman asked if I was going to get off. I remember looking back over to Tonsai Beach, feeling nothing but good vibes, and pointed that I wanted to go there instead. The closer we got to the beach, the more excited I became. I hadn't even stepped foot on ground yet, but there was something about this place I loved already.
I remember lugging my backpack up the road, and not finding accomodation until the third set of bungalows I came across. 500 baht per night...about $13...not too shabby for high season. :) After a quick shower, I was outta my room by 9:30 and ready to explore. One thing I certainly took note of was the men to women ratio. I was surrounded by men, and they were all in mighty good shape if I may say so! Was I in heaven? How the hell did I land here? I would discover in the morning that the cliffs hovering the beach would be covered with rock climbers, which explained all the athletic eyecandy.
Picture the beach as a half moon...the curve is the road that goes into the jungle, lined with bars, restaurants, and bungalows. It starts at one side of the beach and comes out on the other near one of the cliff walls, which I walked all along the road then back the other direction along the beach, and that's when I discovered the "slackline" bar (called the Sawadee Bar, but nobody really knew that.) On the first night, I saw some people walking along a bungee tightrope out front, and decided I would grab a beer, take a seat, and sit back to enjoy the show. I posted up there as my regular hangout from that point on, and practiced my balance on it everyday.
After a few days, I realized I did not want to leave anytime soon. My 30 day Thai visa would be running out, so I went on a 12-hr round trip to Malaysia to extend my visa 15 more days. Not the best way to spend a day...but definitely worth it. During those two weeks, I met so many amazing people from all over the world...Austria, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, Germany, France, Vietnam, and even a fair share of fellow Americans. EVERYONE who comes to Tonsai comes to rock climb, and although I went on a couple excursions with friends, I just wasn't as hardcore as they were. I spent most my other days either hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, walking the slackline, playing volleyball, reading in hammocks, and swimming at high tide. And eating delicious Thai food of course! It was a rough life.
About a week into my stay, I organized a fishing/camping trip to Chicken Island. There were 10 of us, and for $30 each, we had a longtail boat driver take us to a secluded beach to set up camp. Fishing poles, snorkel gear, tents all included. We never did end up fishing...but we did catch alot of Changs and Singhas though. Luckily, the boatman brought fish from home and cooked for us while we partied around the bonfire. After dinner and plenty more beers, we all went swimming in the ocean, which was filled with glowing phosphorescents whenever you splashed the water. And yes, we were skinny dipping...there was glowing plankton in the water, people! How can you not throw your clothes off for that!?
Not only was the landscape gorgeous, but it was just as stunning underwater. I regret that I didn't go on any dives, but near the end of my stay, I went on an all-day snorkeling excursion with a friend from Germany, and it was the best snorkeling I've ever seen...huge schools of fish, giant jellyfish, sea snakes, and massive coral.
Tonsai is a backpacker and rock climber haven. It's not overcrowded. It's just right. There are no cars, no motorbikes. Electricity only comes on in my bungalow from 5pm to 9am. Hot showers are nonexistent. Healthy kittens roamed around this place, so for cat lovers, all the more reason Tonsai is heaven. There were minor annoyances that added to the charm, and mosquitos were not one of them. Every now and then, the friggin' monkeys would ransack my bungalow in search for food and steal my soap instead. Seriously...what monkey steals soap?
In all honesty, I hesitated writing about this place. It really is special, and I'd hate to see it get overcrowded or commercialized. Most of the people I became friends with have been to Tonsai multiple times. I, myself, will certainly be going back someday and hope to see the same familiar faces. Now remember, I was originally meant to stay for one night and then go to Phi Phi Islands where "The Beach" was filmed. Instead, I found my own little beach and stayed for weeks. Yeah, I said it...my beach, not yours!
